![]() i did this a couple of times, blotting up the solvent between applications. first, i used a small, stiff flux brush to work a 50/50 mix of acetone and MEK in to the crack faces and thoroughly wet it out. Thoroughly degreasing the areas to be glued will take a bit more time, but not much. occasionally pat-dry the wood with some shop paper towels to prevent it from absorbing too much water, then start brushing again. ![]() mix up the cleaner/degreaser and water and start brushing on the surface use circular brushing to break through the finish, and then brush in the direction of the grain when you get down to the wood. i used a natural bristle brush that was finer than a straw broom but not too soft. Never submerge the stock and don't use too stiff a brush. not too bad, actually! the crack runs all the way through and the two pieces can be separated, but it's a pretty clean and close-fitting crack with no large splinters missing. The first order of business after test firing was to remove the tape and take the lockwork out of the stock. (don't get me wrong, though: Wayne Newton is still freakin' classy.) ![]() plus, old guns are cool! it's earned it's scars, and i don't want it ending up looking like Wayne Newton or Joan Rivers - like someone's trying to make something look younger than it really is. ![]() it's also well-used, with nicks and pits, a broken and repaired tang (look for the brass brazing in the photo), a chunk off the bottom of the stock, etc etc. ![]() no, not for being lazy, i just think that'll be a bit of lipstick on a pig. a friend suggested bead blasting, polishing, and a classic rust blue, but i actually don't want to go near that. The plan is to fix the stock to be safely fireable and hopefully give the gun another century of service. ![]()
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March 2023
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